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Post by jimbiggunboys on Nov 20, 2011 19:50:27 GMT -6
I posted this on another forum so I thought I'd post it here too and see if anyone over here had any experience with aluminum. I've been reloading for a long time and I've heard both sides of the story. Some people say no, never reload aluminum and some say sure, why not? Over the years I've picked up a few at the range. Some of course are Berdan primed and not worth the trouble. I've got quite a few 9mm and .45acp that I've reloaded 2 or 3 times and I can't tell any difference from brass. I suspect eventually they'll split but so far, so good. Does anyone out there have any firsthand experience reloading aluminum?
Jim
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Post by buckshot on Nov 21, 2011 2:27:16 GMT -6
Jim,
I have reloaded a lot of stuff, including some US steelcase from WW II.
It impressed me that CCI went to the effort to make non-standard sized Berdan primers and set the cases that way for their aluminum Blazer rounds.
If they go to that expense to keep us from reloading them when they still sell standard brass that is reloadable I listen to them.
The WW II US steelcase .45 is much different from the current Russian Wolf steelcase in .45 ACP. The US steelcase is thicker and softer. It acts as much as possible like brass. Wolf's harder steelcase DOES NOT act like brass.
The aluminum cases do not act like brass either. That is why many firearms have warnings on them not to fire aluminum cased ammo or CCI Blazer rounds. It does not contract after firing like brass does, for one thing. Aluminum also work hardens badly, with no real way to anneal it but melt it and start over again.
That is how I see it, anyway. I have, just so you know, drilled out pre WW II 8 X 56r cases to put shotgun primers in them for re-use with lead bullet and pistol powder loads. But I DON't reload aluminum cases.
Buckshot
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Post by jtpatriot on Nov 30, 2011 16:02:41 GMT -6
I don't reload steel or aluminum. I really don't like to shoot them as Ive experienced them sticking and or failure to eject. I've heard of folks doing it, but the inferior properties compared to traditional brass cases makes me want to stay away from it.
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Post by bear4570 on Dec 21, 2011 13:04:09 GMT -6
A shooting buddy of mine who was trying to save some money picked up some boxer primed aluminum cases at the range and reloaded them. Figured it wasn't much different then brass. Used his standard reloading formula for .45 acp of 5.2 gr Win 231 and a 230 gr RN lead bullet. First couple of mags shot fine, second round of the third mag blew the slide off his 1911. Fortunatly no injury occured except to a really nice Colt 1911.
Was it the aluminum case or an error in his reloading technique, to many variables to sort out. But if it was in fact the weaker alumninum case than that is one variable I have control over so I choose not to reload them. Not worth the few pennies I save to take the risk of blowing up a high $$$ gun. Just me two cents.
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Post by rep1270 on Dec 22, 2018 15:41:27 GMT -6
I have used CCI .357 mag aluminum cases in my revolver and I will never use them again. I tried the aluminum cases at the range first and I could not get them to eject. I ended up driving all the cases out with a dowel and a hammer. I reload and can make some hot loads but I have never had a brass case stick. If I need more than 6 shots I want to be able to reload my revolver. This is my experience you can use them if you want. Ralph
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Post by papaof2 on Dec 22, 2018 18:13:15 GMT -6
I have used CCI .357 mag aluminum cases in my revolver and I will never use them again. I tried the aluminum cases at the range first and I could not get them to eject. I ended up driving all the cases out with a dowel and a hammer. I reload and can make some hot loads but I have never had a brass case stick. If I need more than 6 shots I want to be able to reload my revolver. This is my experience you can use them if you want. Ralph Nothing like real world experience to determine the safest course of action. |
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Post by griz375 on May 4, 2019 22:17:29 GMT -6
I've shot some aluminum case ammo in some S&W revolvers plus a Colt Trooper MK III -- no real problems except some were stiff to eject & required a little persuasion.
I've also used aluminum cased ammo on .45 ACP (Colt x 1, Springfield x 1, Taurus x 2 & Norinco x 1, now gone) without any issues. It was a different story in 9MM (several HPs, CZs & one HK)
A couple of WW II vintage Inglis models had some serious issues with extraction and my CZ 75B SA tore a rim almost entirely off -- again no real problem to deal with but the supposed savings were offset by the consumption of my time.
As I can't find what I consider to be reliable load data from recognised sources, I'm not venturing down that path. I've stopped buying new aluminum cased ammo as I'd rather be shooting than tinkering for no good reason and although none of my pieces are really high value, I just don't feel like fiddling with them, risking them or my aging OEM bits.
About the only steel I've shot is 7.62x39 or 7.62x25 -- all performed well, with no extraction or ejection issue but I was shooting com-bloc design firearms, which may say something.
G
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Post by cutter on Jan 24, 2020 13:48:08 GMT -6
Save your aluminum cases. Take them to the scrap yard when you go. Keeps them out of the landfill. That's about all they're good for.
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